Assuming that you have followed the instructions on the preceding two pages your should now be enjoying the renewed performance and economy of your new S. U carbs. You are reading this page, so maybe things have not gone as planned. Below I have listed some of the most common problems, and how to correct them. If these do not cure your problem please do not hesitate to call me. Even if you did not purchase a set of carburetors from me, I am an enthusiast and hope to help you get your MG or Triumph or Jaguar or Sunbeam or Austin Healey ect running to its highest potential.
Fuel flows out the vent pipe or pours out the jet If fuel flows out the jet but not the vent pipes make sure the vent pipes are clear. Clogged vent pipes prevent venting above the fuel level in the float bowls. This is an uncommon problem but it does happen. Install a fuel filter as close to the carburetors as possible, use new fuel line after the filter.
If you feel comfortable doing so, remove the float bowl lid, pull the float hinge pin, shake the float to see if it has fuel inside — if so you need a replacement float — now remove the needle from the float valve and wipe the vitron tip with a towel — being sure to remove any debris. Blow compressed air or spray carburetor cleaner into the float valve seat and out the fuel inlet.
Repeat until you are certain all debris is removed. Fast idle — even with screws backed completely out Make sure linkage is not holding the carbs open.
Disconnect the linkage from the bell crank where used, loosen the cable stop on MGBs and others with cable type operation. The most common cause of fast idle is vacuum leaks. Spray all joints and connections in the intake manifold with carb cleaner. Place a paperclip on the secondary rod horizontally and slide it up to the base of the secondary diaphragm housing. Drive the vehicle under full load and check the position of the clip.
If it is pushed down they are working. To increase the secondary opening speed, install a lighter spring. If the carburetor is too large for the engine, it may not open the secondaries all the way, because the additional airflow is not required. This is especially true in a street vehicle. They will add fuel under load and remove it when not required, resulting in better fuel economy and drivability.
If you must plug the valve you will need to jet up jet sizes to compensate. The fact is there is simply no such thing as a carburetor that can get that kind of mileage, never has been, and never will be. Stop and think about it: Carburetors are full of gasoline and gasoline is flammable.
Not paying enough attention can cause some very unintended consequences. Better to repair a leaking fuel Straight To Jail - The Carburetors - Loud Enough To Raise The Dead (Vinyl fitting or a malfunctioning float level than to witness the paint being burned off an immaculate hood.
The two most common offenders are, first, failing to check for leaks and, second, mounting a fuel pressure regulator on a bulkhead or inner fender well instead of positioning it close to the carburetor.
As demonstrated by any data acquisition system, the further distance the fuel pressure LP is mounted from the carburetor, the slower its reaction time. Nicholas, of JET, concurs: Make sure the fuel lines are tight and the fuel fittings and the lines are in good condition before you start the vehicle.
That is just asking for a fire. And too little fuel pressure can also cause engine damage. The float is trying very hard to control the fuel under difficult circumstances. We are currently using 5 pounds as our base fuel pressure. This a great place to start. Installing a screw in the secondary throttle lever to force the secondary open.
This can result in an engine backfire and possibly bind the linkage, resulting in uncontrollable engine speed. Fun Stories from The Street. Below are a few examples of some of the things our manufacturers see all the time, and facepalm in dismay.
Hollywood-style flaming car chase. Oh, the joys of a flooded engine, and possible fire. A trifecta! If the engine backfires your face would be in the direct line of fire, both literally and figuratively. Seriously, LP, it happens often enough to make this list. Go ask someone who has a clue; you are unsafe. When in doubt, call the manufacturers. You simply pull back on the collar of the socket, insert the plug into the socket and the connection is made.
Once the connection is made properly, the collar will lock into position and the connection is secure. We have done testing on our connections and these will exceed 2, psi and still not come apart. We rate our products up to psi when using them in your applications. Unlike standard AN or SAE-type connectors that are threaded together, Jiffy-tite connectors are percent sealed while connected.
When you make the connection on a Jiffy-tite quick-connect fitting, the face of the plug seals against the face seal inside the socket. When you compress LP seal inside the socket, the connection is made and you will have a leak-proof seal.
Log in or Sign up, LP. Atomic Industries www. Register now to get rid of these ads! The H. I have a Y block in my '58 F Its been running pretty solid since I threw it in a few months back. I put a new Edelbrock on, ran it solid for a week and a half. Under any load or throttle, the popping turns in into straight up backfiring threw the carb.
The backfiring is in sequence with RPM. My timing has not changed, and the problem doesn't go away if I mess with the timing at all. I pulled off the carb, went over the whole thing, everything seemed fine.
I did a compression test, because I figured if a valve wasn't shutting then that cylinder wouldn't have any compression. Please correct me if I'm wrong. All cylinders tested well, around psi. The plugs did have some oil fouling, but nothing too serious. Here's some points that may or may not mean anything: -my ignition coil is a brand new MSD blaster.
I have a pertronix flamethrower electronic ignition as well, no points. Instead of using regular grade chevron, I used midgrade shell. Could the higher grade gas cause problems on a low compression motor? Not exactly a goos sign I'd guess. Driving the truck isn't too great. I feel like I lose power LP the popping, and it's pretty damn loud with the backfiring.
Can anyone point me in the right direction before I start pulling heads off? Posted using the Full Custom H. Cam BakerOct 10, Back fire through exhaust is a rich fuel condition, firing through carb is a lean condition, or timing but you have that set and probably not the issue.
Spark is looking for fuel. How's the plugs look? Makes some sense with the lower octane. Last edited: Oct 10, SaxonOct 10, The plugs are a little fouled.
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